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Until it looks like you almost dipped the hatch in the can. If you are using lacquer, give the finished grating a good brush with alcohol. Leave enough for the finish. The shot racks that go around the hatches are a little vague. I have tried to find out how deep the depression is for the ball. It must be deeper than the radius in order to get the center of gravity below the edge of the rack so the ball will not come out and go rolling about the deck. S. Constitution. Can’t think of everything.
Remember in all ports and entry ports the corners should be square and clean. I mean no small radius in the corners. Take it out with a knife, or a square file that has had one side ground off. Another point about filling pieces. Make them long enough, well above the port hinges and below long enough for the pins for fastening the carriage in position. The mortises in the carlings for the ledges will figure out to be about the same except for a few exceptions. You remember the system we had in the beginning for milling out the slots for the “floors” in the stern block.
Wherever small pieces go when they fly out of tweezers or nippers. It is real simple to make. Mine is the same size as the desk drawer. I had to let the drawer down to accommodate the apron. This meant I had to install another set of runners for the both of them. The front side of the apron is curved to fit your waist and the sides extend far enough to rest your elbows and the pads when you are carving. The cloth material should be heavy as it does get loaded with tools when the bench is full or is too far to reach.